The Kenmore 110-series (and every Whirlpool, Maytag, Roper, Amana built on the same direct-drive platform) is the cockroach of appliances — they never die, and customers keep calling you for the same five failures: lid lock, control board, wash plate splines, drain pump, and gear case bearings.
That’s why Gabe grabbed a 110.28322700 and took it all the way down to a bare frame. No sped-up nonsense — just real shop pace so you can follow on your phone under someone’s laundry sink.
Tools You’ll Need
- ¼″ nut driver (90 % of the job)
- 7 mm, 10 mm, T30 Torx, 7/16″ deep socket
- Impact driver (wash plate laughs at hand tools)
- Channel locks + cut-off 7/16″ bolt + electric hammer
- Spanner wrench + small sledge
- Trim tools / putty knife / gloves
Step 1 – Cabinet Drop in Minutes
Two ¼″ screws under the back cover, pull it off. Another handful of ¼″ screws around the main back panel — remove and lift cabinet straight up and off. Console pops with a putty knife at the front seam (two spring clips). Flip it forward, disconnect the UI ribbon, set aside. UI boards fail constantly on these.
Step 2 – Water Inlet Valve & Lid Lock
Inlet valve = two ¼″ screws + one pinch connector. Super common no-fill / leak issue.
Two ¼″ screws at rear hinges, tilt top forward. Lid lock = two Phillips under plastic bezel. This is the #1 service call on every one of these machines.
Step 3 – Stuck Wash Plate (The Hammer Trick)
Pop cap, 7/16″ bolt (impact!). If the plate is seized (splines worn), thread in a cut-off 7/16″ bolt all the way and vibrate it out with an electric impact hammer — vibration pops it every time. Worn wash plates destroy gear case splines — always replace when you see play.
Step 4 – Basket & Spanner Nut
Spanner wrench + small sledge, counter-clockwise. Basket lifts straight out once the nut is off.
Step 5 – Flip & Strip the Bottom
Lay machine on its front. Liberate the entire wiring harness (5/16″ and ¼″ screws + Christmas-tree clips). Drain pump = three ¼″ screws + heat shield (never forget the shield on reinstall!). Rotor = T30 center bolt (magnetic). Stator/splutch = seven 7 mm bolts.
Step 6 – Gear Case Drop (Sledge Method)
Upright the machine. Thread a long bolt into the gear case shaft and beat downward with a sledge — basket and gear case separate cleanly without damaging splines. Gear case bearings are the #1 big-ticket repair on these machines.
Step 7 – Suspension Rods & Tub Lift
Push plastic cup down, rotate, lift ball out — four corners, 60 seconds. Tub walks right out.
Most Common Failures & Part Numbers We Stock
- Lid lock – W11307244 (or W10810403 upgrade)
- Main control – W11498798 / W11603811
- Wash plate – W10752283 (replace before it kills the gear case)
- Drain pump – W10130913 / WPW10730972
- Gear case – W11454361 / W11233548
- Suspension rods – W11396717 kit (4-pack)
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